Surfing, this captivating sport that offers you the opportunity to ride the waves, dance with the ocean, and experience an adventure like no other. If you're ready to dive into the world of surfing, you've come to the right place.
Welcome to our complete guide to surfing, where we'll explore everything you need to know to start this incredible adventure. 🏄♂️
Introduction to Surfing 🏄♀️
Before you take the plunge, let's learn the basics :
History of Surfing: Surfing was born in Hawaii centuries ago. The Hawaiians used solid wooden boards called “ alaia ” to ride the waves. Today, surfing has become a global sport with a unique and diverse culture.
Surf Equipment: The surfboard is the surfer's central tool. There are different types of boards, each with its own characteristics. The main types include longboards, shortboards, funboards, and fishboards. Choosing your first board will depend on your skill level and local conditions.
Surf Accessories: In addition to the board, you will need essential accessories such as the leash (cord that connects the board to your ankle to avoid losing it), the pad (an anti-slip stuck to the board), the fins ( which steer the board and ensure stability), the wetsuit (to protect you from the cold), and the wax (paraffin to prevent slipping).
Safety: Safety is paramount. Before catching your first wave, make sure you understand basic safety rules , including the meaning of flags on the beach, currents and tides, and right-of-way rules in the water.
Surfing Etiquette: Surfing has its own rules of courtesy . Always respect other surfers and share waves fairly. Learn the priority rules to avoid collisions.
Progression: Surfing is a demanding sport that requires patience and practice. You'll probably start with smaller waves and work your way up over time. Be prepared to challenge and learn from each session.
Location of Spots : Find out about local surf spots. Each spot has its own characteristics, including wave type and difficulty levels.
Environmental Ethics: Surfers have a special connection to the ocean. Respect the environment by not throwing any waste into the water and participating in beach clean-up initiatives.
Surf Culture: Surfing is much more than a sport, it is a culture. Learn the history, music, art and lifestyle that comes with it to enrich your experience.
The rest of this guide will help you deepen your knowledge of this incredible sport. 🌊🤙
Vocabulary in the Surfing world:
Surfing has its own language, a unique way of communicating that will allow you to blend into surf culture. Discover these essential terms:
- The Barre : The area where the waves break. “Pass the bar” means crossing this area to reach the open sea.
- Curl : The heart of the wave, the place where the power is maximum.
- Offshore : An onshore wind that creates clean, well-shaped waves ideal for surfing.
- Onshore : An onshore wind that makes the waves messy and less conducive to surfing.
- Tube : When the surfer slides inside the roller formed by the wave, creating a temporary tunnel.
- Snap : A slip on the wave where the back of the board briefly passes in front of the direction of travel.
- Floater : A long slide on the lip of the wave.
- Cut back : A tight turn that allows the surfer to return to the breaking point.
- Kook : A clumsy beginner in surfing.
- Express Yourself : One of the joys of surfing is expressing your unique style through your movements on the wave.
- Sandbar : A sandbar is a shallow underwater formation composed of sand, gravel or rocks. In surfing, sandbars can affect the way waves break, sometimes creating ideal conditions for surfing.
- Reef Break : A reef break is a type of surf spot where waves break over a bottom of reef, coral or underwater rocks. These spots are often appreciated for their powerful and long waves.
- Shore Break : The shore break occurs when waves break directly over the edge of the shore, without forming a defined shoulder. This can create difficult and dangerous surfing conditions as waves break quickly near the coast.
- Take Off : The take off is the crucial moment when a surfer stands up on their board and begins to slide down the face of a wave. This is one of the most important parts of a surf maneuver.
- Wipe Out : A wipe out occurs when the surfer loses control of their board and falls off it while riding a wave. This can be spectacular to watch, but can also be risky.
- Point Break : A point break is a type of surf break where waves break alongside a point or pier, creating long, consistent waves. These spots are popular for their predictable waves and long rides.
- Dawn Patrol : The dawn patrol, literally "dawn patrol", refers to surfers who get up very early in the morning to go surfing at first light. Surfing conditions are often best early in the morning, hence this practice.
- Peak : The "peak" refers to the precise point where a wave begins to break, that is to say the point where the wave begins to break and create a surfable shoulder. This is the place where surfers generally look to catch a wave, as this is where it offers the best riding opportunities. Peaking can be defined on surf spots where waves break consistently at a specific location.
Now that you have an idea of surf lingo, you can chat like a local on the beach!
Surfing at the Olympic Games 🏅
Surfing, this ancestral sport emblematic of Hawaiian culture, has finally found its place in the Olympic Games. Since the Tokyo Games in 2020, surfing has been officially included in the Olympic program. But what makes this inclusion even more special is that surfing will make a notable appearance during the 2024 Olympic Games in Tahiti, French Polynesia , a legendary location for surfers.
Inclusion in the Olympic Games:
Surfing has long been considered a counter-culture sport, on the fringes of the Olympic movement. However, its global popularity and universal appeal to young people made it an ideal candidate for expanding the Olympic program. It is now one of the most anticipated sports at the Games.
Tahiti, the Jewel of Surfing:
The 2024 Games in Tahiti are particularly special for the surfing community. French Polynesia is a legendary place for surfers from all over the world, famous for its incredible waves and heavenly landscapes. Olympic surfers will have the chance to compete in these legendary waters, which promises to be an exceptional spectacle.
The Competition Format:
During the Olympic Games, surfing takes place in the form of men's and women's shortboard competitions. Surfers are judged based on the quality and variety of their maneuvers, their engagement on the wave, and their overall style.
A dream come true :
The inclusion of surfing in the Olympics is a dream come true for many professional surfers and a major milestone for the sport. This helps increase the visibility of surfing on a global scale, encouraging new generations to immerse themselves in this unique culture.
Whether you are a surfing enthusiast or discovering the sport for the first time, the 2024 Olympic Games in Tahiti promise to be an unforgettable event to celebrate surfing at an Olympic level. 🌊🏅
The Shape of Surfboards
Surfboards come in all shapes and sizes. Explore the different tail shapes: fish, square, round, pin, and much more.
Tails' Shapes in Surfing 🏄♂️
Surfboards aren't just floating pieces of wood. Each is carefully designed to suit specific wave conditions and the rider's surfing style. A key feature of the board is the shape of its tail (rear). There are a variety of tail shapes, each impacting the performance of the board.
1. Fish Tail 🐟:
The fish tail is short and wide, making it an ideal choice for small waves. Its design allows great maneuverability and ease of catching softer waves. This is a popular option for surfers who want to have fun in less than perfect conditions.
2. Square Tail 🟨:
The square tail is square at the rear. It offers great stability and additional surface area for catching waves. This shape is suitable for beginner surfers and smaller wave conditions.
3. Round Tail 🟣:
The round tail is, as its name suggests, rounded at the rear. It offers excellent maneuverability and is versatile in a range of conditions. Intermediate and advanced surfers often enjoy this shape.
4. Pin Tail 🍍:
The pin tail is narrow at the rear. It is designed for bigger and more powerful waves. This shape allows the surfer to control the board in difficult conditions. It's the experts' choice for big swells.
5. Swallow Tail 🏄♂️:
The swallow tail has a distinctive V-shaped notch at the rear. It provides excellent grip in turns and is ideal for faster waves. It is a popular choice among performance surfers.
6. Squash Tail 🟩:
The squash tail is a variation of the square tail, but with rounded corners. It combines stability and maneuverability, making it a good all-around choice for many wave conditions.
7. Diamond Tail 🔷:
The diamond tail has a diamond shape at the back. It offers a good balance between grip and maneuverability, making it suitable for various surfing styles.
The choice of tail shape will depend on your skill level, surfing preferences and local conditions. Shapers (artisans who make surfboards) can also customize the shape of the tail to meet your specific needs.
Whether you're looking to catch small waves or tame ocean monsters, there's a board with the perfect tail to help you achieve your goal. 🌊🏄♀️
The Shapers - The Artisans of the Waves
Meet the artisans who bring your dream boards to life. Shapers are the magicians who turn ideas into reality, creating tailor-made surfboards to meet the needs of each surfer. To discuss your board design with a shaper, it is essential to master key surf craft vocabulary.
Anatomy of a Surfboard
To truly understand your surfboard, it is essential to know the different parts that make it up. Every design element plays a crucial role in the performance of your board.
- 1. Outline 📏: The outline is the general silhouette of the board when you look at it from above. It determines the width, length and curve of the board. A wider outline provides better stability and buoyancy, ideal for beginners and small waves. A narrower outline is more manageable and suitable for larger waves.
- 2. Rocker 🌈: Rocker is the curvature of the surfboard from the front (nose) to the back (tail). The more pronounced the rocker, the more quickly the board is able to turn. A flat rocker is ideal for speed and stability on smaller waves, while a more pronounced rocker is better for hollower waves and performing radical maneuvers.
- 3. Nose 🚤: The nose is the front tip of the board, generally narrower than the rest of the board. The shape of the nose affects the buoyancy and ability of the board to enter waves smoothly. Boards with a wider nose are more stable, while those with a pointed nose are designed for maximum performance.
- 4. Deck 🏡: The deck is the top of the board, where you stand while surfing. It is often equipped with a non-slip foam pad (traction pad) so that the surfer can remain stable during maneuvers. Some surfers prefer a board with a flat deck for better balance, while others opt for a more concave deck for better control.
- 5. Bottom Shape 🎢: The bottom shape, or the shape of the underside of the board, is essential to how the board reacts in the water. Common shapes include flat bottom for speed, concave for maneuverability, and V-bottom for cornering stability.
- 6. Volume: Discuss board volume with the shaper to determine buoyancy and ease of paddling.
- 7. Stringer: The stringer is a long strip of material that reinforces the core of the board. Discuss adding a stringer with the shaper to adjust the stiffness of the board.
- 8. Outline: Specify the desired outline, which determines the general shape of the board, based on your surfing style and local wave conditions.
By developing your understanding of these terms, you will be able to work closely with a shaper to create the perfect surfboard for your specific needs. These passionate craftsmen are ready to put their expertise at the service of your surfing pleasure, by shaping unique boards that will allow you to push your limits on the waves. 🏄♀️🔧
Softtop Foam Boards 🏄♂️
Foam boards, often called “ softtops ,” are the ideal option for beginners in surfing. They offer a series of advantages that facilitate learning and guarantee safety in the waves. Here is why they are widely popular with novices:
1. Unparalleled Stability: Softtops are known for their stability. Their wide and floating construction makes the learning phase much more pleasant. You'll spend less time falling and more time catching waves.
2. Maximum Tolerance: Beginners often make mistakes, but softtops are forgiving of these imperfections. You can afford to make mistakes without being punished by a hard fall.
3. Increased Safety: The foam that covers these boards provides increased safety, especially in rough waves. It is much softer in the event of a collision with the board or other surfers.
4. Ease of Paddling: Softtops are generally longer than traditional surfboards, making it easier to paddle to catch waves. You won't need to use too much force to position yourself correctly.
5. Smooth Transition: Once you gain experience, you can transition to a traditional surfboard smoothly. The paddling and balance skills you develop with a softtop will be invaluable to you.
6. Versatility: Softtops aren't just for beginners. Intermediate and even advanced surfers sometimes use them for fun in small waves or to teach surfing to friends and family.
In summary, if you are new to surfing, seriously consider starting with a softtop foam board. It will help you build a solid foundation of skills and maximize your enjoyment in the water. 🌊
Surfing Materials 🌊
To fully understand how a surfboard works, it is essential to know the materials it is made from. Each element plays a crucial role in the performance and durability of the board. Here is an overview of the essential materials:
1. Resin: Resin is used to coat the fiberglass fabric that reinforces the board. It can be of two main types: epoxy and polyester. Epoxy boards are lighter, durable and UV resistant, while polyester boards are heavier but offer a specific flexible feel enjoyed by some surfers.
2. Foam Blocks: The foam inside the board is usually expanded polystyrene (EPS) or polyurethane (PU). EPS boards are lighter and float better, while PU boards offer a more classic surf feel. The choice depends on your personal preferences.
3. Fiberglass: Fiberglass is laminated with resin to strengthen the board. It influences the stiffness, flexibility and reactivity of the board. The layout and thickness of the fiberglass can be adjusted to adapt the behavior of the board to the needs of the surfer.
4. Stringer: This is a long strip of material, usually wood, placed in the center of the board. The stringer reinforces the structure of the board, improves stability and controls flexibility. Some board models do not have one.
5. Decorations: Some surfers like to personalize their board with decals, paints or colored resins. This adds style while also being able to slightly reinforce the structure of the board.
It is important to note that the combination of these materials is often customized by the shaper to meet the needs and preferences of the surfer. Materials affect the buoyancy, handling and durability of the board, so choosing the right blend is essential for an optimal surfing experience. 🤙🏄♂️
The Master Craftsmen of Surfing 🏄♂️
The world of surfing has been shaped by master craftsmen, renowned shapers who have created innovative designs and legendary boards. Here are some of these artisans who have left their indelible mark on surfing:
- Al Merrick: One of the most famous shapers of all time, California-based Al Merrick is known for his Channel Islands Surfboards brand. His boards have been used by many world champions, including Kelly Slater. Merrick is known for his attention to detail and his ability to create high performance boards.
- Bob McTavish: Bob McTavish is an Australian surfing legend, credited with playing a crucial role in the transition from longboarding to shortboarding in the 1960s. His shaping style revolutionized surfing, allowing surfers to perform radical maneuvers.
- Maurice Cole: Maurice Cole is an Australian shaper known for his high-tech surfboards. He has collaborated with many professional surfers to create high performance competition boards. His innovative vision of shaping has had a great influence on the surfing industry.
- Gerry Lopez: Although he is best known for his exceptional surfing style, Gerry Lopez is also an accomplished shaper. He is famous for his gun-style boards, designed to tame the biggest waves in the world, notably at Pipeline, Hawaii.
- Simon Anderson: Also Australian, Simon Anderson revolutionized surfing with his invention of the thruster, a board model with three fins. This innovation significantly improved the handling of surfboards and became the industry standard.
- Donald Takayama: We can't talk about the master craftsmen of surfing without mentioning Donald Takayama. Hailing from Hawaii, Takayama is a surfing legend who has dedicated his life to crafting exceptional surfboards. He was renowned for his meticulous work and craftsmanship. Its boards, especially noseriders, are sought after by surfers around the world. Donald Takayama contributed significantly to the art of shaping and surfing culture, leaving behind a lasting legacy in the industry. 🏄♂️🤙
These master surfing craftsmen have made significant contributions to the evolution of the sport and the way we surf today. Their innovative designs have inspired generations of surfers and continue to influence the surf scene around the world. 🤙🌊
Star Surfers 🌟
Surfing has seen generations of legendary surfers, each bringing their own touch of style, grace and bravery to the waves. Here is a list of some of the most iconic surfers who have left their mark on surfing history:
Men's Surfing Legends 🏄♂️:
- John John Florence - An exceptional Hawaiian surfer known for his versatility in all conditions.
- Taj Burrow – An Australian surfer recognized for his smooth style and impressive career.
- Andy Irons - A Hawaiian surfing icon, three-time world champion, whose talent shone brightly.
- Duke Kahanamoku – Considered the father of modern surfing, he popularized the sport globally.
Women's Surfing Legends 🏄♀️:
- Anne-Gaëlle Hoarau - The first French woman to establish herself on the international scene, pioneer of French surfing.
- Bethany Hamilton - An inspiration, she continued surfing after surviving a shark attack and became an iconic figure of courage.
- Cannelle Bulard - French surfing champion, she left her mark on the history of European surfing.
- Carissa Moore - Four-time world champion, she redefined women's surfing with her powerful style.
- Chelsea Georgeson - Australian world champion, she left an indelible mark on women's surfing.
The Pioneers of Surfing 🏄♂️🏄♀️:
- Duke Kahanamoku - In addition to being a male legend, he helped popularize surfing around the world.
- Laird Hamilton - Known for his bravery and love of big waves, he is a true big surf icon.
- Greg Noll - Nicknamed "The Bull", he made big wave surfing history and became a role model for many big wave surfers.
Contemporary Surfers 🌊:
- Jérémy Florès - First French surfer to win a WSL event, he is one of the best European surfers.
- Kelly Slater - One of surfing's greatest living legends, with 11 world titles to her name.
- Mick Fanning - A three-time world champion from Australia, he is famous for his calmness under pressure and his resilience.
This list is just a glimpse of the rich history of surfing and the surfers who have left their mark on the sport. Each of them has contributed to the evolution of surfing and continues to inspire new generations to take on the waves. 🤙
Explore surf competitions, from the ISA circuits to the World Surf League (WSL), and discover star surfers like Kelly Slater, Stephanie Gilmore, and Gabriel Medina.
Surfing Competitions - The Quest for Perfection 🏆
Surfing is not only a sport, it is also a highly competitive field. Surfing competitions provide a platform for surfers from around the world to showcase their talent, style and dedication in pursuit of the perfect wave. Here is an overview of the most prestigious surf competitions and circuits:
1. The World Surf League (WSL) 🌍:
- The WSL is the pinnacle of professional surfing. It organizes the Championship Tour (CT) for men and women, where the best surfers in the world compete on the most emblematic spots.
- The men's CT brings together the 34 best surfers in the world, while the women's CT includes the 17 best female surfers.
- Surfers accumulate points throughout the season to try to win the title of world champion.
2. The Olympic Games 🥇:
- Surfing made its Olympic debut at the Tokyo Games in 2021, and it is expected to be on the program again for the Paris Games in 2024, with a surfing competition taking place in Tahiti.
- This new dimension gives Olympic recognition to surfing, which constitutes a historic moment for the sport.
3. The International Surfing Association (ISA) 🌊:
- The ISA organizes the World Surfing Championship which brings together national teams from all over the world.
- This competition highlights the diversity of surfing and allows surfers to represent their country.
4. Big Wave Competitions 🌊:
- These competitions highlight big wave surfing and surfers who dare to take on liquid monsters. Events such as the Peahi Challenge in Jaws, Hawaii, are highly anticipated.
- Big wave surfers are celebrated for their courage and skill in riding giant waves.
5. Junior and Amateur Competitions 🏄♂️🏄♀️:
- These competitions are essential for the development of young talents. Young surfers have the opportunity to show off their skills and progress to the professional level.
6. Longboard and Bodyboard Competitions 🏄♂️🏄♀️:
Surfing is not limited to shortboards. Longboard and bodyboard competitions celebrate different surfing disciplines.
Whether you are a surfing enthusiast or are new to the sport, following surfing competitions can be exciting. Competitors push their limits to achieve excellence in this demanding sport, and each competition brings its share of suspense and memorable moments. 🤙
Iconic Surf Spots 🌴
Surfing is a global adventure that takes you across oceans in search of the perfect wave. Here are some of the most iconic surf spots around the world, as well as some gems from the French coast:
1. Pipeline, Hawaii 🌺:
- Nicknamed the “Pipe,” this is one of the most legendary and feared spots in the world. Its powerful and hollow tubes make it an ultimate challenge for the most experienced surfers.
2. Jeffreys Bay, South Africa 🇿🇦:
- J-Bay is famous for its long, perfect hits. It's one of the most consistent and photographed waves on the planet.
3. Teahupo'o, Tahiti 🏄♂️:
- Known as "Chopes," this monstrous wave breaks over a sharp coral reef. Surfers brave these massive waves for pure adrenaline.
4. Uluwatu, Bali 🌴:
- Bali is a surfing paradise, and Uluwatu is one of its most iconic spots. Its long and fast waves are a delight for surfers.
5. Banzai Pipeline, Oahu, Hawaii 🌊:
- Pipeline is another Hawaii gem. Its breathtaking tubes attract the most daring surfers in the world.
6. Hossegor, France 🇫🇷:
- Hossegor is one of the most famous spots in Europe. It offers world-class waves and hosts major competitions every year.
7. La Gravière, France 🇫🇷:
- Located in Hossegor, this beach offers exceptional surfing conditions, especially at high tide. This is a great place for experienced surfers.
8. Biarritz, France 🇫🇷:
- Biarritz is a renowned surfing destination in France, with a variety of spots suitable for all levels. It is also the cradle of surfing in Europe.
9. La Nord, Hossegor, France 🇫🇷:
- The North is famous for its massive waves, especially in winter. It is often chosen for big surf competitions.
These spots are just the tip of the iceberg. The world is littered with incredible surfing destinations, each with its own character and challenges. So, prepare your board and set off to discover these aquatic paradises! 🤙
Surf Brands 🏄♀️
The world of surfing is steeped in iconic brands that have played a major role in promoting this unique culture. Whether you're an avid surfer or just an ocean lover, you've definitely come across these familiar names. Let's take a look at some of the most influential surf brands, whether French or international.
French Surf Brands
- Oxbow 🐂: Founded in the 1980s, Oxbow is synonymous with French-style surfing. This brand helped popularize surf culture in Europe thanks to its casual style and quality clothing.
- Zeus ⚡: With its iconic logo representing the Greek god, Zeus is a French surf brand that offers high quality boards and surf equipment for passionate surfers.
- Kanabeach 🌊: Originally from Brittany, Kanabeach is famous for its surf-inspired clothing and its commitment to respecting the environment.
- Sooruz 🌴: Sooruz specializes in innovative and ecological surf wetsuits. The brand strives to protect the ocean while allowing surfers to fully express themselves.
International Surf Brands 🌍
- Quiksilver 🏄♂️: Quiksilver is one of the most iconic brands in the surf industry. Founded in Australia, it is renowned for its surf clothing, boards and accessories.
- Billabong 🌞: Another Australian legend, Billabong, is known for its surfwear and iconic collections. It also sponsors many professional surfers.
- Body Glove 🧤: This Californian brand is a pioneer in the field of surf wetsuits and water sports accessories.
- O'Neill ☘️: Founded in California, O'Neill revolutionized the world of surfing by creating the first surf wetsuit. It is still synonymous with innovation in the industry.
- Rip Curl 🌀: Rip Curl is an Australian brand that excels in manufacturing high performance wetsuits and other surfing equipment.
Surfboard Brands 🏄♂️
- FireWire 🔥: FireWire is an innovative surfboard brand distinguished by its use of advanced technologies to create lightweight, high-performance boards.
- Lost 🌊: Lost Surfboards is a California-based company known for its high-quality boards, designed for surfers of all levels.
- JS Industries 🌐: JS Industries, based in Australia, is a highly respected surfboard brand that was shaped by shaper Jason Stevenson.
- DHD (Darren Handley Designs ) 💥: DHD is an Australian surfboard brand created by Darren Handley, who has designed boards for some of the best surfers in the world.
- Among the brands in France, we can cite, Nomad Surfing , Squid Surfboard , Olaian, Tahe , MD Surfboard ,
Surf Accessory Brands 🏄♂️
- Dakine 🎒: Dakine is famous for its high-quality surf backpacks and accessories, including leashes, board covers and clothing.
- FCS (Fins Control System) 🌊: FCS is a world leader in the manufacturing of surfboard fins and related accessories.
- Future Fins 🌟: Future Fins is another renowned brand in the field of surfboard fins and fins.
- Ocean & Earth 🌊🌏: Ocean & Earth offers a complete range of surf accessories, from board covers to leashes and wax.
- Creatures of Leisure 🌴: This Australian brand specializes in high-end surf accessories, including board covers and grip pads.
Innovative Brands 🚀
- Wyve 🌟: Wyve is a brand that made a splash with its limited edition 3D printed surfboards, pushing the boundaries of board design.
These brands have all contributed to the evolution of surfing by offering high quality products and supporting surf culture . Whether you're looking for stylish clothing, innovative surfboards or quality accessories, these brands have everything you need to fully live your passion for surfing. 🤙
Conclusion: Dive into the Surfing Adventure! 🌊
Surfing is not just a sport, it is a true adventure that takes you into the depths of the ocean and connects you to nature in an incomparable way. By learning the vocabulary of surfing, exploring the different shapes of boards, understanding the materials that make up your dream board, and discovering the legends that have marked this sport, you prepare yourself for an unforgettable experience.