Everything you need to know about surfing

Surfing, this captivating sport that offers you the opportunity to ride the waves, dance with the ocean, and experience an unparalleled adventure. If you're ready to dive into the world of surfing, you've come to the right place.

Welcome to our complete guide to surfing, where we'll explore everything you need to know to get started on this incredible adventure. 🏄‍♂️

Introduction to Surfing 🏄‍♀️

Before you jump in, let's learn the basics :

1. History of Surfing: Surfing originated in Hawaii centuries ago. Hawaiians used solid wooden boards called “ alaia ” to ride the waves. Today, surfing has become a global sport with a unique and diverse culture.

2. Surfing Equipment: The surfboard is the surfer's central tool. There are different types of boards, each with its own characteristics. The main types include longboards, shortboards, funboards, and fishboards. Choosing your first board will depend on your skill level and local conditions.

3. Surf Accessories: In addition to the board, you will need essential accessories such as the leash (cord that connects the board to your ankle to prevent losing it), the pad (a non-slip material stuck to the board), the fins (which steer the board and provide stability), the wetsuit (to protect you from the cold), and the wax (paraffin to prevent slipping).

4. Safety: Safety is paramount. Before you catch your first wave, make sure you understand basic safety rules , including the meaning of beach flags, currents and tides, and right-of-way rules in the water.

5. Surfing Etiquette: Surfing has its own rules of courtesy . Always respect other surfers and share the waves fairly. Learn the right-of-way rules to avoid collisions.

6. Progression: Surfing is a demanding sport that requires patience and practice. You'll likely start with smaller waves and progress over time. Be prepared to take on challenges and learn from each session.

7. Surf Spot Locations : Research local surf spots. Each spot has its own characteristics, including wave types and difficulty levels.

8. Environmental Ethics: Surfers have a special connection with the ocean. Respect the environment by not throwing any trash into the water and participating in beach cleanups.

9. Surf Culture: Surfing is more than a sport, it's a culture. Learn about the history, music, art, and lifestyle that go with it to enrich your experience.

The rest of this guide will help you deepen your knowledge of this incredible sport. 🌊🤙

Vocabulary in the Surfing world:

Surfing has its own language, a unique way of communicating that will allow you to blend into surfer culture. Discover these essential terms:

• The Bar : The area where the waves break. "Passing the bar" means crossing this area to reach the open sea.
• Curl : The heart of the wave, where the power is at its maximum.
• Offshore : An onshore wind that creates clean, well-formed waves, ideal for surfing.
• Onshore : A sea wind that makes waves untidy and less suitable for surfing.
• Tube : When the surfer slides inside the roller formed by the wave, creating a temporary tunnel.
• Snap : A skid on the wave where the tail of the board briefly passes in front of the direction of travel.
• Floater : A long slide on the lip of the wave.
• Cut back : A tight turn that allows the surfer to return to the breaking point.
• Kook : A clumsy beginner at surfing.
• Express Yourself : One of the joys of surfing is expressing your unique style through your movements on the wave.
• Sandbar : A sandbar is a shallow underwater formation made of sand, gravel, or rocks. In surfing, sandbars can affect the way waves break, sometimes creating ideal conditions for surfing.
• Reef Break : A reef break is a type of surf spot where waves break over a reef, coral, or underwater rock bottom. These spots are often popular for their powerful, long waves.
• Shore Break : Shore break occurs when waves break directly against the edge of the shore, without forming a defined shoulder. This can create difficult and dangerous surfing conditions as the waves break quickly near the shore.
• Take Off : The take off is the crucial moment when a surfer stands up on their board and begins to slide down the face of a wave. It is one of the most important parts of a surfing maneuver.
• Wipe Out : A wipe out occurs when the surfer loses control of their board and falls off it while riding a wave. It can be spectacular to watch, but it can also be risky.
• Point Break : A point break is a type of surf spot where waves break along a point or pier, creating long, consistent waves. These spots are popular for their predictable waves and long runs.
• Dawn Patrol : Dawn patrol refers to surfers who get up very early in the morning to go surfing at first light. Surfing conditions are often better early in the morning, hence this practice.
• Peak : The "peak" refers to the precise point where a wave begins to break, i.e., the point where the wave begins to break and create a surfable shoulder. This is the place where surfers generally look to catch a wave, as it offers the best riding opportunities. The peak can be defined at surf spots where waves consistently break at a specific location.

Now that you have an idea of ​​surfing lingo, you can chat like a local on the beach!

Surfing at the Olympic Games 🏅

Surfing, this ancient and emblematic sport of Hawaiian culture, has finally found its place at the Olympic Games. Since the Tokyo Games in 2020, surfing has officially been included in the Olympic program. But what makes this inclusion even more special is that surfing will make a remarkable appearance at the 2024 Olympic Games in Tahiti, French Polynesia , a legendary surfer's destination.

Inclusion in the Olympic Games:

Surfing has long been considered a countercultural sport, on the fringes of the Olympic movement. However, its global popularity and universal appeal to young people have made it an ideal candidate for expansion on the Olympic program. It is now one of the most anticipated sports at the Games.

Tahiti, the Jewel of Surfing:

The 2024 Games in Tahiti are particularly special for the surfing community. French Polynesia is a legendary destination for surfers from around the world, famous for its incredible waves and idyllic landscapes. Olympic surfers will have the chance to compete in these legendary waters, which promises to be an exceptional spectacle.

The Competition Format:

At the Olympic Games, surfing takes place in the form of men's and women's shortboard competitions. Surfers are judged on the quality and variety of their maneuvers, their commitment to the wave, and their overall style.

A Dream Come True:

The inclusion of surfing in the Olympic Games is a dream come true for many professional surfers and a major milestone for the sport. It helps raise the profile of surfing globally, encouraging new generations to immerse themselves in this unique culture.

Whether you're a surfing enthusiast or discovering the sport for the first time, the 2024 Olympic Games in Tahiti promise to be an unforgettable event celebrating surfing at an Olympic level. 🌊🏅

The Shape of Surfboards

Surfboards come in all shapes and sizes. Explore the different tail shapes: fish, square, round, pin, and more.

Tail Shapes in Surfing 🏄‍♂️

Surfboards aren't just floating pieces of wood. Each one is carefully designed to suit specific wave conditions and the rider's surfing style. A key characteristic of the board is the shape of its tail. There are a variety of tail shapes, each having an impact on the board's performance.

1. Fish Tail 🐟 :

The fishtail is short and wide, making it an ideal choice for smaller waves. Its design allows for great maneuverability and ease in slacker waves. It's a popular option for surfers who want to have fun in less-than-perfect conditions.

2. Square Tail 🟨:

The square tail is square at the back. It provides great stability and extra surface area for catching waves. This shape is suitable for beginner surfers and smaller wave conditions.

3. Round Tail 🟣:

The round tail is, as the name suggests, rounded at the back. It offers excellent maneuverability and is versatile in a range of conditions. Intermediate and advanced surfers often appreciate this shape.

4. Pin Tail 🍍:

The pin tail is narrow at the back. It is designed for bigger, more powerful waves. This shape allows the surfer to control the board in difficult conditions. It is the expert choice for big swells.

5. Swallow Tail 🏄‍♂️:

The swallow tail has a distinctive V-shaped notch at the rear. It provides excellent grip in turns and is ideal for faster waves. It is a popular choice among performance surfers.

6. Squash Tail 🟩:

The squash tail is a variation of the square tail, but with rounded corners. It combines stability and maneuverability, making it a good all-around choice for many wave conditions.

7. Diamond Tail 🔷:

The diamond tail has a diamond shape at the rear. It offers a good balance between grip and maneuverability, making it suitable for various surfing styles.

The choice of tail shape will depend on your skill level, surfing preferences, and local conditions. Shapers (craftsmen who make surfboards) can also customize the tail shape to meet your specific needs.

Whether you're looking to catch small waves or tame ocean monsters, there's a board with the perfect tail to help you achieve your goal. 🌊🏄‍♀️

The Shapers - The Wave Artisans

Meet the craftsmen who bring your dream boards to life. Shapers are the magicians who turn ideas into reality, creating custom surfboards to meet the needs of each surfer. To discuss your board design with a shaper, it's essential to master the key vocabulary of surf craftsmanship.

Anatomy of a Surfboard

To truly understand your surfboard, it's essential to know the different parts that make it up. Each design element plays a crucial role in your board's performance.

• 1. Outline 📏: The outline is the general silhouette of the board when viewed from above. It determines the width, length, and curve of the board. A wider outline provides better stability and buoyancy, ideal for beginners and smaller waves. A narrower outline is more maneuverable and suitable for larger waves.
• 2. Rocker 🌈: Rocker is the curvature of the surfboard from the nose to the tail. The more pronounced the rocker, the faster the board can turn. A flatter rocker is ideal for speed and stability on smaller waves, while a more pronounced rocker is better for hollower waves and for performing radical maneuvers.
• 3. Nose 🚤: The nose is the front tip of the board, usually narrower than the rest of the board. The shape of the nose affects the board's buoyancy and ability to smoothly enter waves. Boards with a wider nose are more stable, while those with a pointed nose are designed for maximum performance.
• 4. Deck 🏡: The deck is the top of the board, where you stand while surfing. It often has a non-slip foam pad (traction pad) to keep the surfer stable during maneuvers. Some surfers prefer a board with a flat deck for better balance, while others opt for a more concave deck for better control.
• 5. Bottom Shape 🎢: The bottom shape, or the shape of the bottom of the board, is essential for how the board reacts in the water. Common shapes include flat bottom for speed, concave bottom for maneuverability, and V-bottom for stability when turning.
• 6. Volume: Discuss the volume of the board with the shaper to determine buoyancy and ease of paddling.
• 7. Stringer: The stringer is a long strip of material that reinforces the core of the board. Discuss adding a stringer with the shaper to adjust the stiffness of the board.
• 8. Outline: Specify the desired outline, which determines the overall shape of the board, based on your surfing style and local wave conditions.

By developing your understanding of these terms, you can work closely with a shaper to create the perfect surfboard for your specific needs. These passionate craftsmen are ready to put their expertise to work for your surfing pleasure, shaping unique boards that will allow you to push your limits on the waves. 🏄‍♀️🔧

Softtop Foam Boards 🏄‍♂️

Foam boards, often referred to as " softtops ," are the ideal option for beginners to surf. They offer a number of benefits that make learning to surf easier and ensure safety in the waves. Here's why they're so popular with beginners:

1. Unmatched Stability: Softtops are renowned for their stability. Their wide, buoyant construction makes the learning phase much more enjoyable. You'll spend less time falling and more time catching waves.

2. Maximum Forgiveness: Beginners often make mistakes, but soft tops forgive these imperfections. You can afford to make mistakes without being punished by a hard fall.

3. Increased Safety: The foam covering these boards provides increased safety, especially in rough waves. It is much softer in case of collision with the board or other surfers.

4. Ease of Paddling: Softtops are generally longer than traditional surfboards, making it easier to paddle to catch waves. You won't have to exert too much effort to position yourself correctly.

5. Smooth Transition: Once you gain experience, you can transition smoothly to a traditional surfboard. The paddling and balance skills you develop with a softtop will be invaluable.

6. Versatility: Softtops aren't just for beginners. Intermediate and even advanced surfers sometimes use them to have fun in small waves or to teach their friends and family how to surf.

In short, if you're new to surfing, seriously consider starting with a softtop foam board. It will help you build a solid foundation of skills and maximize your enjoyment in the water. 🌊

Surf Materials 🌊

To fully understand how a surfboard works, it's essential to know the materials it's made of. Each element plays a crucial role in the board's performance and durability. Here's an overview of the essential materials:

1. Resin: Resin is used to coat the fiberglass fabric that reinforces the board. It can be of two main types: epoxy and polyester. Epoxy boards are lighter, more durable, and UV-resistant, while polyester boards are heavier but offer a specific flexible feel that some surfers appreciate.

2. Foam Cores: The foam inside the board is usually made of expanded polystyrene (EPS) or polyurethane (PU). EPS boards are lighter and float better, while PU boards offer a more classic surf feel. The choice depends on your personal preference.

3. Fiberglass: Fiberglass is laminated with resin to strengthen the board. It influences the board's rigidity, flexibility, and responsiveness. The layout and thickness of the fiberglass can be adjusted to tailor the board's behavior to the surfer's needs.

4. Stringer: This is a long strip of material, usually wood, placed in the center of the board. The stringer reinforces the board's structure, improves stability, and controls flex. Some board models do not have one.

5. Decorations: Some surfers like to personalize their boards with decals, paints, or colored resins. This adds style while also slightly strengthening the board's structure.

It's important to note that the combination of these materials is often customized by the shaper to meet the surfer's needs and preferences. Materials affect the board's buoyancy, maneuverability, and durability, so choosing the right mix is ​​essential for an optimal surfing experience. 🤙🏄‍♂️

The Master Craftsmen of Surfing 🏄‍♂️

The world of surfing has been shaped by master craftsmen, renowned shapers who created innovative designs and legendary boards. Here are some of these artisans who have left their indelible mark on surfing:

• Al Merrick: One of the most famous shapers of all time, California-based Al Merrick is known for his Channel Islands Surfboards brand. His boards have been ridden by numerous world champions, including Kelly Slater. Merrick is known for his attention to detail and ability to create high-performance boards.
• Bob McTavish: Bob McTavish is an Australian surfing legend, credited with playing a crucial role in the transition from longboarding to shortboarding in the 1960s. His shaping style revolutionized surfing, allowing surfers to perform radical maneuvers.
• Maurice Cole: Maurice Cole is an Australian shaper renowned for his high-tech surfboards. He has collaborated with numerous professional surfers to create high-performance competition boards. His innovative vision of shaping has had a significant influence on the surfing industry.
• Gerry Lopez: Although best known for his exceptional surfing style, Gerry Lopez is also an accomplished shaper. He is famous for his gun-style boards, designed to tame the world's biggest waves, notably at Pipeline, Hawaii.
• Simon Anderson: Also Australian, Simon Anderson revolutionized surfing with his invention of the thruster, a board model with three fins. This innovation significantly improved the handling of surfboards and became the industry standard.
• Donald Takayama: We can't talk about surfboard master craftsmen without mentioning Donald Takayama. Originally from Hawaii, Takayama is a surfing legend who dedicated his life to shaping exceptional surfboards. He was renowned for his meticulous work and craftsmanship. His boards, especially the Noseriders, are sought after by surfers worldwide. Donald Takayama contributed significantly to the art of shaping and surf culture, leaving behind a lasting legacy in the industry. 🏄‍♂️🤙

These master surf craftsmen have made significant contributions to the evolution of the sport and the way we surf today. Their innovative designs have inspired generations of surfers and continue to influence the surf scene worldwide. 🤙🌊

The Star Surfers 🌟

Surfing has seen generations of legendary surfers, each bringing their own unique sense of style, grace, and bravery to the waves. Here's a list of some of the most iconic surfers who have made their mark on surfing history:

Men's Surfing Legends 🏄‍♂️:

• John John Florence - An exceptional Hawaiian surfer known for his versatility in all conditions.
• Taj Burrow - An Australian surfer known for his smooth style and impressive career.
• Andy Irons - A Hawaiian surfing icon, three-time world champion, whose talent shone brightly.
• Duke Kahanamoku - Considered the father of modern surfing, he popularized the sport worldwide.

The Legends of Women's Surfing 🏄‍♀️:

• Anne-Gaëlle Hoarau - The first French woman to make her mark on the international scene, a pioneer of French surfing.
• Bethany Hamilton - An inspiration, she continued surfing after surviving a shark attack and became an iconic figure of courage.
• Cannelle Bulard - French surfing champion, she made her mark on the history of European surfing.
• Carissa Moore - Four-time world champion, she redefined women's surfing with her powerful style.
• Chelsea Georgeson - Australian World Champion, she left an indelible mark on women's surfing.

The Pioneers of Surfing 🏄‍♂️🏄‍♀️:

• Duke Kahanamoku - Besides being a male legend, he helped popularize surfing worldwide.
• Laird Hamilton - Known for his bravery and love of big waves, he is a true icon of big wave surfing.
• Greg Noll - Nicknamed "The Bull," he made big wave surfing history and became a role model for many big wave surfers.

Contemporary Surfers 🌊:

• Jérémy Florès - The first French surfer to win a WSL event, he is one of the best European surfers.
• Kelly Slater - One of surfing's greatest living legends, with 11 world titles to his name.
• Mick Fanning - Australian three-time world champion, he is renowned for his calm under pressure and resilience.

This list is just a glimpse into the rich history of surfing and the surfers who have shaped the sport. Each of them has contributed to the evolution of surfing and continues to inspire new generations to take to the waves. 🤙

Explore surf competitions, from the ISA tours to the World Surf League (WSL), and discover star surfers such as Kelly Slater, Stephanie Gilmore, and Gabriel Medina.

Surf Competitions - The Quest for Perfection 🏆

Surfing isn't just a sport; it's also a highly competitive field. Surfing competitions provide a platform for surfers from around the world to showcase their talent, style, and dedication in the pursuit of the perfect wave. Here's a look at the most prestigious surfing competitions and tours:

1. The World Surf League (WSL) 🌍:

• The WSL is the pinnacle of professional surfing. It hosts the Championship Tour (CT) for men and women, where the world's best surfers compete on the most iconic spots.
• The men's CT brings together the 34 best surfers in the world, while the women's CT has the 17 best surfers.
• Surfers accumulate points throughout the season to try to win the title of world champion.

2. The Olympic Games 🥇:

• Surfing made its Olympic debut at the Tokyo 2021 Games, and is expected to return to the Paris 2024 Games, with a surfing competition taking place in Tahiti.
• This new dimension gives Olympic recognition to surfing, which constitutes a historic moment for the sport.

3. The International Surfing Association (ISA) 🌊:

• The ISA organizes the World Surfing Championship, which brings together national teams from around the world.
• This competition highlights the diversity of surfing and allows surfers to represent their country.

4. Big Wave Competitions 🌊:

• These competitions showcase big wave surfing and surfers who dare to take on liquid monsters. Events such as the Peahi Challenge in Jaws, Hawaii, are highly anticipated.
• Big wave surfers are celebrated for their courage and skill in riding giant waves.

5. Junior and Amateur Competitions 🏄‍♂️🏄‍♀️:

• These competitions are essential for the development of young talent. Young surfers have the opportunity to showcase their skills and progress to the professional level.

6. Longboard and Bodyboard Competitions 🏄‍♂️🏄‍♀️:

Surfing isn't just about shortboards. Longboard and bodyboard competitions celebrate different surfing disciplines.

Whether you're a surfing enthusiast or new to the sport, following surfing competitions can be exciting. Competitors push their limits to achieve excellence in this demanding sport, and each competition brings its share of suspense and memorable moments. 🤙

Iconic Surf Spots 🌴

Surfing is a global adventure that takes you across the oceans in search of the perfect wave. Here are some of the most iconic surf spots around the world, as well as some gems along the French coast:

1. Pipeline, Hawaii 🌺:

- Nicknamed "The Pipe," it is one of the most legendary and feared spots in the world. Its powerful, hollow tubes make it the ultimate challenge for even the most experienced surfers.

2. Jeffreys Bay, South Africa 🇿🇦:

- J-Bay is famous for its long, perfect barrels. It's one of the most consistent and photographed waves on the planet.

3. Teahupo'o, Tahiti 🏄‍♂️:

- Known as "Chopes," this monstrous wave crashes over a sharp coral reef. Surfers brave these massive waves for the pure adrenaline rush.

4. Uluwatu, Bali 🌴 :

- Bali is a surfing paradise, and Uluwatu is one of its most iconic spots. Its long, fast waves are a delight for surfers.

5. Banzai Pipeline, Oahu, Hawaii 🌊:

- Pipeline is another Hawaiian gem. Its breathtaking tubes attract the world's most daring surfers.

6. Hossegor, France 🇫🇷:

- Hossegor is one of the most famous spots in Europe. It offers world-class waves and hosts major competitions every year.

7. La Gravière, France 🇫🇷:

- Located in Hossegor, this beach offers exceptional surfing conditions, especially at high tide. It is a prime spot for experienced surfers.

8. Biarritz, France 🇫🇷:

- Biarritz is a renowned surfing destination in France, with a variety of spots suitable for all levels. It is also the birthplace of surfing in Europe.

9. La Nord, Hossegor, France 🇫🇷:

- The North is renowned for its massive waves, especially in winter. It is often chosen for big wave surfing competitions.

These spots are just the tip of the iceberg. The world is dotted with incredible surfing destinations, each with its own unique character and challenges. So, pack your board and set off to discover these aquatic paradises! 🤙

Surf Brands 🏄‍♀️

The world of surfing is steeped in iconic brands that have played a major role in promoting this unique culture. Whether you're an avid surfer or simply an ocean lover, you've certainly come across these familiar names. Let's take a look at some of the most influential surf brands, both French and international.

French Surf Brands

• Oxbow 🐂: Founded in the 1980s, Oxbow is synonymous with French surfing. This brand helped popularize surf culture in Europe thanks to its laid-back style and quality clothing.
• Zeus ⚡: With its iconic logo representing the Greek god, Zeus is a French surf brand that offers high-quality surfboards and equipment for passionate surfers.
• Kanabeach 🌊: Originally from Brittany, Kanabeach is famous for its surf-inspired clothing and its commitment to respecting the environment.
• Sooruz 🌴: Sooruz specializes in innovative and eco-friendly wetsuits. The brand strives to protect the ocean while allowing surfers to fully express themselves.

International Surf Brands 🌍

• Quiksilver 🏄‍♂️: Quiksilver is one of the most iconic brands in the surfing industry. Founded in Australia, it is renowned for its surfwear, boards, and accessories.
• Billabong 🌞: Another Australian legend, Billabong is known for its surfwear and iconic collections. It also sponsors many professional surfers.
• Body Glove 🧤: This Californian brand is a pioneer in the field of surfing wetsuits and water sports accessories.
• O'Neill ☘️: Founded in California, O'Neill revolutionized the surfing world by creating the first wetsuit. It is still synonymous with innovation in the industry.
•  Rip Curl 🌀: Rip Curl is an Australian brand that excels in manufacturing high-performance wetsuits and other surfing equipment.

Surfboard Brands 🏄‍♂️

• FireWire 🔥: FireWire is an innovative surfboard brand that stands out for its use of advanced technologies to create lightweight, high-performance boards.
• Lost 🌊: Lost Surfboards is a California-based company renowned for its high-quality boards designed for surfers of all skill levels.
• JS Industries 🌐 : Australian-based JS Industries is a highly respected surfboard brand that was shaped by shaper Jason Stevenson.
• DHD (Darren Handley Designs ) 💥 : DHD is an Australian surfboard brand created by Darren Handley, who has designed boards for some of the best surfers in the world.
• Among the brands in France, we can cite, Nomad Surfing , Squid Surfboard , Olaian, Tahe , MD Surfboard ,

Surf Accessory Brands 🏄‍♂️

• Dakine 🎒: Dakine is famous for its high-quality backpacks and surf accessories, including leashes, board bags, and clothing.
• FCS (Fins Control System) 🌊: FCS is a world leader in the manufacturing of surfboard fins and related accessories.
• Future Fins 🌟: Future Fins is another renowned brand in the field of surfboard fins and fins.
• Ocean & Earth 🌊🌏: Ocean & Earth offers a complete range of surf accessories, from board bags to leashes and wax.
• Creatures of Leisure 🌴: This Australian brand specializes in high-end surf accessories, including board bags and non-slip pads.

Innovative Brands 🚀

• Wyve 🌟: Wyve is a brand that has made a splash with its limited-edition 3D printed surfboards, pushing the boundaries of board design.

These brands have all contributed to the evolution of surfing by offering high-quality products and supporting surf culture . Whether you're looking for stylish clothing, innovative surfboards, or quality accessories, these brands have everything you need to fully live your passion for surfing. 🤙

Conclusion: Dive into the Surfing Adventure! 🌊

Surfing isn't just a sport; it's a true adventure that takes you to the depths of the ocean and connects you with nature in an incomparable way. By learning the vocabulary of surfing, exploring the different board shapes, understanding the materials that make up your dream board, and discovering the legends that have left their mark on this sport, you're preparing for an unforgettable experience.